There are so many processes and techniques when it comes to metalsmithing, but hands down, my favorite has got to be chainmaking. It’s something I’ve built my jewelry business on, and I even developed an entire class on it.
One of the things I love most about chainmaking is how much variation and distinct personality you can get from the process. Starting with a simple jump ring linked chain, you can create so many different forms just by playing with the variables.
And there are so many variables to work with! I first started developing this list when I taught chainmaking in a university metals class, then used it as the core of my chainmaking class on Creative Live, and now I’m sharing it with you to help get your creative juices flowing:
1. Type of Metal
Metal choice is about more than just color – the metal you use can set the tone for the your chain. Silver can be sleek and modern while copper may seem more earthy. You can also mix metals in a single chain, using a second color as an accent, or creating a two-tone or even ombre effect in your chain.
2. Metal Gauge
Gauge (which is just a fancy term for metal thickness) can have a big impact on the feel of your chain. Thicker gauges can feel tough or bold, while thinner gauges can feel more delicate.
3. Material
Wire is the standard material choice for chainmaking, but you can also play with forming sheet metal to create unique links. And of course, don’t rule out alternative materials for chainmaking – I’ve seen really interesting chains out of everything from felt to mica.
4. Size of Link
The size of your links can have a big impact on how your chain feels, especially when considered in conjunction with metal gauge. The size of the links can make a chain feel tough and chunky or light and airy. And just like with metal types, you can vary the size of the links within a single chain to create a focal point or lots of variation.
5. Shape of Link
The basics of chainmaking call for circular links wrapped around a round dowel rod, but that’s just the beginning when it comes to link shapes. You can wrap around two dowel rods to create ovals, or get square dowel rods. You can also form wire by hand to get an infinite amount of shapes. And you can also smush or distort round links after soldering for even more variation.
6. Number of Links
The foundation of a chain is one loop after another, but you can create a lot of variation by playing with the number of links. You can double or even triple up the number of links that run through each other, or add links that hang off of other links. And just like with the other variables, you can do this at strategic points in the chain for an accent, or throughout the whole chain to completely change the feel.
7. Number of Strands
In addition to varying the number of links, you can also join entire strands together to create cascading effects (great for bib necklaces and multi-strand earrings) or create more density (in necklaces or bracelets.) You can even play with how the strands are connected to create spiderweb effects or full body jewelry.
8. Hammer Texture
After soldering, you can add more variation by hammering your links. This could range from adding texture to give your links a tactile feel, or hammering them flat to completely change the shape.
9. Finish
The finish on your chain can have a big impact on the final feel – from high polish (best done in a tumbler) to very matte, and pretty much every step in between. (Chains are easiest to finish in a tumbler, and you can vary the finish by changing your tumbling media.)
10. Patina
You can also apply a patina to your chain to vary the look even further. You can leave the patina on the entire piece, or clean it off for more variation. You can also experiment with only dipping part of a chain into a liquid patina for a two-tone or ombre effect.
As you can see, there are so many variables in chainmaking that you could spend a lifetime exploring it. (Which is basically what I’ve done for the past twelve years or so!)
And while a few of these variables work best with soldered links, there’s actually a lot you can do with chainmaking if you don’t have a torch! (Just look at chainmail!) Plus, it’s so easy to get started. Just grab a few coils of wire, some dowel rods, your jeweler’s saw, and pliers, and start playing! (You can check out my list of tools to help you get started at home.)
Want to learn more about the ins and outs of chainmaking? Be sure to check out my online chainmaking class!
Already playing with chain and want to learn how to develop your experiments into a cohesive collection? Check out my online class, Core & Explore: Creative (yet Cohesive) Collection Design for Jewelers & Metalsmiths
